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Santa Cruz County rental facts

NOTE:

Landlords of Section 8 rentals

are typically charging about 10% less

than they would to the general public.

 

Housing Authority of the County of Santa Cruz. 

SECTION 8 SCHEDULE OF PAYMENT STANDARDS

Effective October 1, 2008

Sharing RO $706

Studio style $941

1bed  $1,183

2bed  $1,542

3bed  $2,219

4bed  $2,287

5bed  $2,576

6bed  $2,912

7bed  $3,248

8bed  $3,584

Mobile Home Space $579

More data:

The average rent in California climbed 0.6 percent to $1,435 per month.  In Santa Cruz County, the average rent jumped to $1,637.


The average rent in Santa Cruz County was higher than in San Francisco, and Napa. San Francisco ranked fourth in the state with average rent of $1,624. The only California community surveyed last quarter with higher rents than Santa Cruz was San Jose-Sunnyvale-Santa Clara, with an average rate of $1,674.


The average occupancy rate in California dropped 0.4 percent to 94 percent. BUT In Santa Cruz County, the occupancy rate climbed 0.6 percent to 96.5 percent.  Santa Cruz-Watsonville tied with Chico for the highest occupancy rate. Napa, Hanford/Corcoran, Merced and San Francisco followed. The San Jose-Sunnyvale-Santa Clara region ranked 10th with an occupancy rate of 94.8 percent.


In Santa Cruz, average rents have increased 25.8 percent in the past four years. The highest increase -- 31.5 percent -- was for
one-bedroom apartments.
SOURCE: RealFacts

When short sales fail

 

How can lender back out of deal, and where did deposit go?

Friday, January 11, 2008

Q: I put a bid on a home that was subject to a short sale early last month. I was told by my Realtor that it could take a little while before any decision would be made.

After calling my agent once a week for three weeks, he now tells me that the home went into foreclosure even though the seller wanted to sell the house, and I was told that my offer was gone.

The agent I was working with has now changed to a different real estate company. Somehow I feel that either my Realtor or the selling agent just wasn't aggressive enough in pursuing this deal. How can my offer just "be gone"? How can I still purchase the home? Do I ask for my earnest money back? Do I follow my original real estate agent to his new company? I am so very frustrated by this whole deal. I just don't think that it was handled well.

A: You certainly do have lots of issues with your attempted purchase of a home. But let's start with a little bit of understanding about the tempestuous real estate market that exists in most of the country today.

In some parts of the country, real estate values have come down significantly; homes are sitting on the market for months; mortgage lenders and home builders have gone out of business; and some homeowners are having problems keeping up with their mortgage payments.

The homeowner you were trying to buy a home from had probably not made a payment to his lender in many months. The owner was trying to get himself out of the mess and hired a real estate agent to sell the home. You found the home and you were willing to buy it. However, what you offered for the home was probably less than what the owner owed to the lender. The owner was short funds to sell the home. These circumstances gave rise to the "short sale."

But just because there is a deal on the table doesn't mean the lender is required to accept the short sale. The lender can take its chances, foreclose on the home and sue the owner for any deficiency in funds that the lender gets from the foreclosure.

There are newspaper reports of homeowners and other real estate practitioners attempting to get lenders on the phone for days at a time without success. Even if someone picks up the phone, it may take several tries to get through to the right person.

You deal may have fallen into this hole. Although we're not suggesting your agent did everything right, even the best agent might not have been able to do anything if he or she couldn't get through to the right person.

Unless you have other information about your agent and the seller's agent, you might want to cut them some slack. In this marketplace, they would have been delighted to have gotten everything together to make the sale.

Unfortunately, it didn't work out. Most likely, it wasn't that you weren't serviced properly but rather that market conditions didn't work out in your favor. Your offer wasn't really gone -- it just didn't go anywhere. The owner might have been willing to accept it but without the lender's agreement to the short sale, you would never have been able to buy the home.

The only apparent customer service flaw is that no one stayed in touch with you to let you know what was going on. That's a big problem, especially in today's market. Agents have to stay in touch with their clients during the offer and negotiation phase, so that everyone knows what's going on.  Numerous times this year, I have had to give my short sale clients an daily update report that told them I made no real progress that day.  I called for four weeks before we discussed moving on to another property or keep trying for another 4 weeks.

If you liked your agent, you can follow him to the new company he moved to. If you didn't like him or you don't feel he really gave you the proper level of customer service, you should find a new agent.

In any event, you should make a request for the return of your earnest money check. The agent you worked with should be willing to help you out with the return of the money. If he won't, then speak to the managing broker of the firm he worked for.

What to look for in a final walk-through inspection

Property should be in same condition as day you signed contract

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Most home buyers will have at least two opportunities to inspect their property before closing on the purchase.

First, most buyers will include a contingency in the contract that allows them to do a professional home inspection by the home inspector of their choice. This inspection typically happens right after the sales price has been agreed to, usually within a week or 10 days.

If the home inspector finds anything wrong in the property or decides further inspections (perhaps for radon, heating and air conditioning systems, or mold) are called for, the home buyer will be able to hire specialists to figure out if there is an insurmountable physical problem with the property.

Assuming those inspections go well, the second opportunity to inspect the property is just before the property closes. The preclosing inspection, or final walk-through, as it is often referred to, is a home buyer's last opportunity to walk through the property before closing.

What you're looking for here is not at the same level as the initial professional home inspection. In a preclosing inspection, you simply want to make sure that the property is in the same condition as it was on the day you agreed to buy it.

To avoid getting burned, you schedule the walk-through as close to the actual closing as possible, certainly within the 24 to 48 hours prior to closing. If possible, the sellers should have already moved out.

The whole point of the walk-through is to protect yourself and your future property from sellers who aren't as nice as they seem to be or who are actually as nasty as they appear. By inspecting the premises, you're making sure the seller has lived up to his or her agreements in the sales contract. And if he or she hasn't, you want to know about it in advance of the closing so remedies (both monetary and otherwise) can be agreed upon before money changes hands.

What should you look for in a preclosing inspection? To start with, you want to make sure that the condition of the home hasn't changed since you signed the contract several months earlier.

Believe it or not, a lot can change in the ensuing weeks. To make sure the home is in the same condition, you'll want to turn on every appliance, open every door, make sure nothing's broken (lights, fixtures, windows, etc.), be certain everything the seller agreed to leave is actually there and in good shape, and be certain that when the sellers moved out, they did no damage to the home.

Sometimes movers can accidentally scrape a wall or pull up carpet in the process of packing up the contents of a house. If you do your preclosing inspection while the movers are there, you'll have a harder time getting around them to make sure that the property is in good shape.

If you get there before the sellers have packed anything up, you might wind up with some nasty surprises on the day you move into the property.

I learned the hard way that sometimes sellers just don't want you to find out certain things until you've closed on the property.

Nearly 30 years ago, I bought our first place. It was a vintage co-op built in the 1920s. The sellers were seniors, and they were a bit quirky. The property hadn't been touched in years.

When I did our final walk-through, I noticed that the water was turned off in the kitchen sink. I wanted to run the dishwasher, which was really old, but didn't want to turn on the water if it was off.

Looking back, it's hard to imagine why this wasn't a red flag for me. But I was really happy to be buying my first place, which was taking just about all the money I had in the world. I didn't question it. I just bought it and moved in.

The first night I unpacked the dishes and decided to run a load in the dishwasher. At well past midnight, I turned on the water and I put in the dish soap and turned on the machine. I went to bed.

I was awakened early the next morning with pounding on our front door. My downstairs neighbors came into their kitchen and noticed that the liquid contents of my dishwasher had dripped down through the ceiling into their kitchen, ruining their window shade.

Iistantly knew why the water had been turned off. Too bad I didn't find that out ahead of time. Still, the damage could have been worse.

As I recall, it cost me $600 to fix the damage in our neighbor's apartment.

Hey homeowners loan modification is an idea

Is your loan going to reset?

Part 1 of 2: Preparing for an adjustable-rate reset

Monday, October 22, 2007

by Patti Lyles

(This is Part 1 of a two-part series.)

A loan modification is a change in the loan contract agreed to by the lender and the borrower. The modifications of major concern today are those designed to reduce the payment burden on borrowers faced with impending rate increases that will make the mortgage payment unaffordable to them. Many are subprime borrowers.

Homeowners faced with this prospect, whether they are already delinquent or not, should request a modification. They are very unlikely to get one if they don't ask, and they should make the investment required to make their case. The stakes are very high: They can save their house and their credit.

The Decision Process: In most cases, the decision on a modification is not made by the firm that owns the loan. It is made by a firm servicing the loan under contract to the owner. The owner could be a single lender, or it could be a group of investors who own pieces of a mortgage-backed security collateralized by a pool of loans.

Whoever the owner, the servicing firm is contractually obligated to find the solution to payment problems that will minimize loss to the owner. If the lowest-cost solution is a contract modification, great -- everyone involved prefers a modification to a foreclosure. But if a foreclosure would generate lower costs for the owner, the decision will be to foreclose. The cost of foreclosure to the borrower does not enter the decision.

Yet the decision is far from cut and dried, and it can be materially affected by whether and how the borrower presents his case. On this issue, I have benefited from an exchange with Warren Brasch, an attorney who represents borrowers seeking loan modifications.

Equity: Perhaps the most important factor affecting the modification decision is the amount of equity the borrower has in his property. If the borrower has enough equity in the property to pay any deferred interest plus foreclosure expenses, foreclosure is almost bound to be the lower-cost solution.

Equity depends on property value, which the borrower is much better positioned to know than the servicer. The borrower knows or can easily find out how many houses in the neighborhood are for sale and what the trend has been in recent sale prices. In a weakening market, it is easy for the lender to overestimate value, and the borrower must prevent that.

Moral Hazard: Servicers fear that if they are liberal in granting modifications, borrowers who don't need a modification will seek one anyway. They protect themselves against this by entertaining modification proposals on a case-by-case basis, while placing the burden of proof on the borrower.

Borrowers must accept the burden of proof. In addition to the data on property value, they need to document that they cannot afford the payment increase that is pending, and they must document exactly what they can afford.

For this purpose, borrowers should calculate their total debt ratio: the sum of mortgage payment, other debt payments, property taxes and homeowners insurance as a percent of their gross (before-tax) income. This number should be calculated now, what it will be after the rate adjustment, and what they will be able to afford. On the last, Brasch suggests that a servicer may be willing to accept 45 percent as a reasonable maximum.

Servicing Cost: Servicers have a self-interest in minimizing modifications because they add to costs. They try to minimize costs by computerizing the servicing process to the maximum degree possible, and standardizing customer support procedures so that low-paid and easily trained employees can perform them.

Modifications must be handled by a special group who are more highly trained and better-paid, and the increased costs from expanding their number cuts into the bottom line. Hence, there is a tendency to be nonresponsive in the hope that the borrower will go away.

Borrowers have to be persistent. According to Brasch: "If a servicer says they will call you back … forget about it. You need to call them and call them constantly. They will lose your paperwork, fail to return calls, put you on hold, and then hang up. It's what they do. Keep fighting, calling, faxing. This does work!"

In making their decisions about whether a modification would be less costly than a foreclosure, servicers usually ignore an asset possessed by the borrower that could tilt the balance toward modification. This is the right to future appreciation in the value of the borrower's house. In exchange for a modification that might otherwise be more costly to the owner than a foreclosure, the borrower could pledge a percent of the future appreciation, which could shift the balance to modification. This will be discussed in the second article in this series.

An agent is not your surrogate

A lesson in real estate problem-spotting

All too often, home buyers and sellers remove themselves as active participants in their real estate transaction when the contract is signed, confident that their agent will handle everything for them. This approach can result in an unpleasant surprise if your agent calls to tell you at the 11th hour that the sale has been delayed or won't be closing at all.

A Santa Cruz real estate agent should, of course, stay on top of the details. But an agent is not your surrogate. Ideally, you and your agent will work as a team to close the deal. However, remember that you are the decision maker, and your agent is merely the facilitator.

For example, let's say the people who have agreed to buy your home are having trouble lining up financing. They request a couple of extra days to finalize a loan commitment. The request will be made through your agent. It would be inappropriate for your agent to grant the extension. That's a decision for you, the seller to make, while relying on the good advice of your agent.

The delay in financing could be due to the fact that the lender hasn't received a forthcoming document. Or, it could be due to a bad credit report. The first is nothing to worry about; the second could mean big trouble.

Suppose your agent decides not to bother you with the request for an extension. Instead, your agent tells the buyers' agent that it's OK to take the extra time. The agent has now stepped in to the role of decision-maker.

A few days turns into a week and you still don't know that anything might be amiss with your sale. If the buyers aren't successful in obtaining the financing they need to close, you could have wasted precious marketing time by not staying involved.

Some agents think they're doing their clients a favor by insulating them from bad news. They hope to solve the problem so that the buyer or seller isn't bothered. Although the agent's intentions might be good, they are ill conceived.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: To ensure that you have a successful home purchase or sale, resolve to stay involved in the process from beginning to end. This may seem impossible to buyers and sellers who are extremely busy. There's usually a lot at stake, so it's worthwhile to make time to stay involved in the outcome of your real estate transaction.

One reason buyers and sellers shrink into the woodwork as soon as the contract is signed is they feel they're out of their element. They have little or no real estate experience and think it's best to leave the heavy lifting to people who know what they're doing.

A good way to stay on top of your transaction -- regardless of your level of expertise -- is to ask your agent to provide you with a summary of the critical details of your purchase contract as soon as possible after the final contract is signed.

The summary should include key contract dates for such things as the date the buyer's deposit is due, contingency deadlines (for financing, inspections, the sale of another property, etc.), a final walk through of the property and the closing date.

It should also include the names and contact information of the people involved in the transactions, such as the buyers and sellers, their real estate agents, the closing agent, inspectors and the buyer's mortgage broker or loan agent. A synopsis of who pays for what (transfer taxes, mortgage fees, etc.) is also useful.

THE CLOSING: Enter the key contracts dates on your calendar and follow up with your agent on the critical deadlines as they come due.

What’s the difference between a stated income loan and a fully documented loan?

Patti Lyles @www.SantaCruzRealEstateHomes.com

Q: What’s the difference between a stated income loan and a fully documented loan if I want to purchase a home or refinance my home loan?

 

A: To put it simply, a stated income loan is where you, as the borrower, are stating your income but not providing any proof of your income. The usual result is a higher rate for the loan because of the lack of documentation of your income. Under prime and Alternative A lending guidelines, a fully documented loan typically requires either the last 2 years of tax returns or W2s. With the Subprime fallout and the resulting impact on the lending industry, programs like stated income loans have recently come under greater scrutiny. Stated income and fully documented loans are just two types of programs, there are others available but for now we will just address these two loan programs.

 

Is this greater scrutiny on stated income loans fair? Like a lot of things in life, stated income loans programs were created with good intentions but morphed into something abused by the less scrupulous elements in the lending industry. Stated income loans were originally designed for the self-employed but they also filled niches for other borrowers on the fringe who were unable to provide full documentation of their income. But as the subprime market began to grow, other types of borrowers started using stated income loans to qualify for purchase and refinance loans. Within the lending industry,

Well stated income loans were referred to as “liar loans,” which I believe is self-explanatory and doesn’t require further explanation on what borrowers were doing on these loan applications.

 

During the most recent increase in the California housing market, many borrowers purchased homes with fairly exotic loan

programs like the 80/20 Interest Only Stated Income loan. Let’s break that down, this was a loan with 100% financing with zero down creating an 80% first and a 20% second and both loans were interest only payment loans with the borrower stating income. Well, guess what? It turns out this very popular loan program (and others similar to this one) was one (of many) culprits in the resulting Subprime fall out.

 

Recently, regulatory agencies have started examining certain loan programs like Interest Only loans, Stated Income loans, and Adjustable Rate Mortgage loans to see if they are in the best interest of the borrower. So what should you do if you are self-employed and want to buy a home or do a refinance?

Well, a lot of it will depend on you as an individual. To get the best rate possible, do the fully documented loan and submit the last 2 years of tax returns. If you aren’t concerned with rate and more concerned with convenience, then stated income loans might be your best bet but please be truthful

about your income on your loan application. But you should know, many lenders are now requesting a 4506T which gives the lender the ability to see what you declared as income on the last two years of tax returns. If the lender submits

and they are beginning to do so more often, the numbers on your loan application and the 4506T better match up.

 

One last note, I believe, and please remember this is only my opinion, the stated income loans may go the way of the dinosaur and be disappearing in the near future (or at least be so rare it will be difficult to get one through the

underwriting process). What is the evidence for this statement? Well, I do not have any evidence to present, it’s a just a theory based on the rumblings coming out of Capitol Hill, changes in lender underwriting guidelines and keeping an eye on the market here in Santa Cruz and the rest of California. But rest assured, lenders will continue to tighten their guidelines to create a sellable security on the secondary market.

 

FICO score and Income?

Question:

Can anyone explain why one's income has no bearing on a FICO score?  Seems to me that this plays a big part in creditworthiness, yet FICO doesn't use income (or net worth) as part of their formula in creating a FICO score.

Answer:

FICO doesn't care whether you're a multi-millionaire or someone who makes a dime a year.

FICO is an indicator of how capable, how likely you are of paying back money you borrow.

*A multi-millionaire asks me for $100 and I give it to him, but he doesn't pay me back.
*A hobo on the street asks me for $100 and I give it to him, but he pays me back.

I would rather lend the hobo money in future, rather than the multi-millionaire.

 

 On another note, sure it's more likely that the multi-millionaire is more capable of repaying the money, but the bottom line is that income does not have a correlation to whether the person will pay on time.

All people care about is whether or not they're gonna get paid back if they loan you money.

BUYERS! If you won't listen to me - listen to the experts

I am asked this question everyday now... Is now a good time to buy a home?
Buyer's you can't focus on falling prices, focus on long-term goals

Monday, September 10, 2007

By Dian Hymer

Last year, the home sale market began to slow, causing many buyers to postpone buying hoping that prices would drop. In fact, in some areas and in some segments of the market, prices have declined. However, in high-demand markets like San Francisco, Austin and Seattle, prices increased compared to a year ago, particularly for upper-end properties.

When interest rates fell below 6.5 percent at the beginning of 2007, San Francisco Bay Area buyers were back competing against one another in a low-inventory market. Was it wise for these buyers to postpone buying until 2007? Waiting resulted in lower interest rates, but in many cases, a higher purchase price.

Mass psychology influences home-buying patterns. For example, when buyers decide that it is not a good time to buy due to fear of falling prices or rising interest rates, this notion tends to become a self-fulfilling prophesy. When the volumes of home sales drop, buyers tend to hold back. When sales heat up, buyers perceive this as a good sign. They feel they must buy immediately before home prices rise and they are priced out of the market.

Buyers tend to follow the herd, which is counterintuitive. It would seem that the best time to buy would be when there isn't competition from other buyers -- that it, in a slow market. However, most buyers feel more comfortable buying when all their friends are buying. The comfort of the crowd validates that their decision is a good one.

Home sale markets are cyclical. There are up markets, down markets, and stable or balanced markets. In an ideal world, you would buy at the end of a down cycle, just before the housing market picks up again. But, it's impossible to time the real estate market. You know that the bottom of a cycle has passed only when the market is moving upwards again.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Given the cyclical nature of housing markets, home buying is risky unless you have a long-term perspective in mind. If you buy at the peak of a cycle and are forced to sell soon after in a softer market, you could end up selling for less than the price you paid. Buyers who can stay put and ride out a down cycle are in a better position to recoup their investment when they sell, and possibly make a profit.

In an uncertain market, buyers who are not sure about how long they will be living in an area may be better off renting than buying. It's often difficult to find a rental that feels like home. However, from a purely financial point of view, buying for the short term could end up costing more than you anticipated if you need to sell in a down market.

A common complaint about renting is that it's a waste of money. There are no tax benefits and you don't build equity. However, it can cost less to rent than to buy. To get the tax write-off, you often need to pay more than you'd have to pay renting. Renting usually requires no home maintenance and there's no risk of losing equity.

Good candidates for buying in a slower market are buyers who are ready to put down roots and stay put for awhile. This not only means that you aren't planning on moving out of the area soon, but it also means that you can afford to buy a home that will suit your long-term needs.

THE CLOSING: A purchase decision should involve a consideration of the dynamics at play in your local market. Prices might or might not drop in your area. In many places like Capitola & Santa Cruz, CA, sales volume is off, but not prices. When inventories are reduced and buyers are back in droves, prices could

"How dumb is that?" isn't what I want to hear

 When I told my buyers last week that Fannie Mae's 2007 Conforming Loan Limit Remains at $417000, they quickly chime in with "How dumb is that?"  As a Santa Cruz County Realtor what do you tell them next week if the buyers come back?

OMG,  The trouble is that $417,000 is the maximum loan amount for a single family residence that Congress will allow Freddie and Fannie to provide, doesn't work in California.  It doesn't help my buyers in the San Lorenzo Valley.  Which is the cheap seats of the real estate theater in my county, I can't believe this.  

This may be fine for some parts of California, it does not provide much help for any home buyers and homeowners in Santa Cruz County where the median price in July was $780,000.  Even if that went down in the next 4 months the conforming limit would still be a joke.  Amazingly, years ago Congress saw fit to raise this conforming limit to $625,500 in the "high-priced" states of Alaska and Hawaii. I will never understood why they didn't include us. Why can't we get the same breaks that Hawaii gets?

The House of Representatives has recently passed a bill raising the limit but the Senate has yet to act. While today's borrowers might still have access to the wide variety of mortgage options that existed prior to this month, there aren't as many viable options to satisfy most of my earnest home buyers or any homeowner (past client) who calls me and wants my advice about refinancing.

I strongly urge the Senate to make this a priority, because we need to help homeowners get access to needed credit.  I sent out an short email to express my thought to Reps. Barney Frank, D-Mass., and Gary Miller, and Sen. Charles Schumer.  I understand they are on my side.  What else can I do?  I do still service the high-end $2mil +++ stuff http://www.LuxurySantaCruz.com but I can't get my next door neighbors into homes any more.

I am not a lender but don't you think that in general, the more mortgages the two entities can purchase, the more confident lenders can be about making loans?

I want to buy a Santa Cruz Home in the next 60 days

Q: I want to buy a Santa Cruz Home in the next 60 days. You asked me what my FICO scores are.  I just found out that the score was below what you would have liked.  My FICO scores are a little low, is there a way I can improve my scores very quickly?

A: The first rule of maintaining and keeping a healthy FICO score of 720 or higher is NEVER BE LATE!  Primarily any MORTGAGE PAYMENTS. I can't emphasize the point of how important it is to never be late on your mortgage payments.

But it is not the sole deciding factor of your FICO score, the three major credit bureaus involved with FICO scoring are Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. All three of these companies use algorithmic equations taking in a multitude of factors in determining your FICO score. The FICO score range is between 300 and 850 and to get the best rates from lenders today, a mid-score of 720 is needed.

For example, if you have the following three scores, 680, 730, 745, you are in a position to get the most competitive rates because your mid-score of 730 is over the 720 benchmark score. So what happens if your mid-score falls under 720? There are a few things you can do to get a rapid turnaround in 30 days.

The first and most immediate impact is to look at your credit cards. If you have any credit cards at or over 50% of the maximum credit limit, pay those credit cards to under 50% of the credit limit immediately. For example, if you have a bank credit card and the credit limit is $5,000 and you have a standing balance of $3,500, pay that down immediately to 50% of the credit limit, which means sending a payment of at least $1,000 to bring the balance under $2,500. One of the biggest detriments to your FICO score is having what is classified as a revolving debt (a credit card) maxed out or over 50% of the balance. Once the revolving debt is paid down to under 50% of the credit limit, the impact on your FICO score can be significant.

What happens if you don't have the cash to pay down your credit card debts to 50% of the balance?. If you do not have the $1,000 to pay down the balance, you can ask for a credit limit increase. With the above example in mind, requesting the bank to increase your credit limit to $7,000 will reduce your debt to 50% of the credit limit and can give you a boost in your scores. But this is only for the most disciplined of people because most people are in the habit of just spending and putting more on a credit card once they are granted a credit limit increase.

There are other things you can do to improve your scores to buy that Santa Cruz Home which include limiting credit inquires to no more than 12 a year, do not cancel credit cards you may have had for a long period of time, and there are a list of others which we can go into with the lender you choose to work with on any Santa Cruz Real Estate transaction.

DRE #01385517